Simple tutorial to make a simple texture
Done by a simple person
(That’s me, not you…Honest!)


OK, after lots of requests to do this I have finally sat down and attempted to put together a tutorial, showing some of the techniques I use when producing my cheap and cheerful textures.

I have to stress that this is my way of doing things. I am sure others will tell you of different or better ways to make a texture, but this way works for me.

I always recommend, when anyone asks me, that you should start with something like the MFD for 3 reasons:-

1. Most people have it
2. It is infinitely versatile
3. SnowSultan has made super seam guide templates for it, which makes life very much easier



As you can see he has made it very easy to match up from one side of the dress to the other, and from front to back.

When I start a new texture I usually have an idea in mind for the finished result. Normally this is in my mind, but on this occasion I have sketched out the idea.


Now I go back to the template.

I normally, when doing a design that needs transmaps, make the rough transmap first.
Using the “magic wand” (I use Photoshop) I select the background of the template, and then reverse the selection so that the dress parts are selected and then use the “paint bucket” to fill these areas with pure black.

One small problem with Snow Sultan’s templates is you will find you have also selected the text, which you don’t need. So I then use the wand again to just click on the dress parts, holding the shift key whilst doing this so that multiple parts are selected. I then delete the original black layer. Before refilling the area I expand my selection by 2 pixels, to make sure that the texture will cover the edges. Having done this I refill the selection with black.


These next screen shots show you some of the tools I have used, to make sure that real beginners know what I mean.


This is using the magic wand. You can see the line of the selection as a dotted line at the bottom of this shot. It will show on your Photoshop screen as “marching ants”.

The Paint bucket is shown in this shot.


You can select which fill to use. If you choose Pattern then it will fill the area with your pattern of choice. If you choose Foreground then it will fill the are with the colour shown in the square that is red in my shot.

I then make the black layer temporarily invisible, so I can see the template again, because now I want to start mapping out the areas which will make the dress design.

To draw these parts I use the polygonal lasso.


When I have the basic design mapped out I then fill the selected area with pure white and then save it as a jpg. I then open poser and apply the texture in the mat room and bring the camera in close so I can check my matches are exact. Sometime even a tiny error can show as seen here, where my back and front shoulder areas have not quite matched up.


Having corrected these errors I then make a third layer. I then draw out those areas I wish to be semi --transparent and fill these areas with a medium grey. The next step is to make the black layer visible again, giving you something like this.


Back to poser and apply this in both the tex and transmap to all parts.

Like this



Even though I have dialled in some folds in the skirt I decided that the skirt still looked stiff, so I applied some shading to make folds on the tex map.

I have saved a png of the folds texture I use mostly for the MFD, if you want to know how to make something like this yourself there is a thread on it here

http://forum.daz3d.com/viewtopic.php?t=57520


I copy and paste this onto my texture file as a new layer, shaping it to fit using the various tools found in the drop down menu on the “edit” button.


I then use the layer mode “multiply” and adjust the opacity to look right. In this case I used 60%


Save this again as your jpg and try it out on the dress in poser.


Now I want to add another layer to the skirt, so it looks like a multi-layered skirt.
So back to the template and draw the shape for the over layer. I do half of it and then duplicate the layer and reverse it, so it is symmetrical.


Because I wanted this to look like a 2nd layer I added a drop shadow.


I then added mock folds to this part, in the same way as I added them to the first layer.


When I save this and re-open poser it now looks like this.



Now I can think about adding a texture to the mix. I selected the underskirt layer parts, the bodice parts and the sleeve parts with the wand, made a new layer and filled it with my chosen texture. I then do the same with the overskirt and the top sleeve parts and did the same, but with a different texture. The thin lines round the sleeves, and the ones that join the bodice to the sleeves I filled with a third texture.


It needed some more trim so I shall show you on the overskirt first. I duplicated the white version of this layer, and moved it in the layer order so it was above the textured version.


I then selected the duplicate layer, using the wand on the background and reversing the selection. I then modified my selection by contracting it 12 pixels.


I then cut out the selected area using Edit/cut, thus leaving a thin line round the overskirt.


I don’t want the edge to go up the sides of the skirt, so I need to remove some of it. There are a couple of ways of doing this, but as it is only a thin line I used the eraser to get rid of the bits I didn’t want.



Once I had done this I selected the white lines and filled them with the third texture I had used, which is the gold one. I did this for all parts that needed a gold edge, and now had a texture that looked like this.


When saved as a jpg and applied to the dress in poser it now looks like this.


Now it actually doesn’t look too bad, just like this, but being me I wanted it to be much more fancy.

I have used a decoration bit from a set I bought at Renderosity.

I copied it from the PSD and pasted it onto my file as a new layer


I then duplicated the layer, reversed it and moved it to the other side of the bodice.


I carried on duplicating layers and moving them around until I had the pattern looking good.


Once I was satisfied that the pattern looked good I saved the files yet again as a jpg.
I made all the fabric-textured layers temporarily invisible and made sure all my transmap layers were visible. I then merged all the decoration layers, and then duplicated this layer. The original layer I made temporarily invisible. On the duplicate I then used the Hue/Sat/lightness command found in the drop down box from “Image” and made this layer 100% light (i.e. white)


Now we have to modify the transmap to accentuate the decoration because as you can see it does not look quite right now. I selected the background of the décor layer, making sure I had selected all of it using the select/similar command. I then used the paintbrush with pure white to fill in the areas above the décor


You can see where I haven’t finished it, to demonstrate what I mean.
Once I had done this I then used the eraser to cut out the grey and white parts below the décor, so I had a fancy edge.


Obviously I had to do this to all parts I wanted to tweak in this way.

For my actual finished dress I used an ice blue texture and used a photoshop style on all the trims, because I wanted them gold.

I also made a matching texture for the MFD overskirt, to give a third layer to the skirt.

I must add here that the template for the overskirt (which is in the MFD expansion pack 1) is not mapped in the same way as the MFD. To get the overskirt to fit just on the hipline as I have done with the dress I had to play around a bit at a time to get it to match. I also had to scale it on the X-axis in Poser to make it fit tight around the hips. Once I had my transmap right the texturing was done to match the dress.


Here is my finished dress, which is available on the Page 7 MFD textures
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